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28/Oct/2022

Any good rock climber knows that in order to perform at your best, you need to take care of your body. That means eating a nutritious diet, appropriate training, sleeping well and staying hydrated. But it can also mean supplementing your diet with the right things to ensure that your body has everything it needs to climb to new heights. Here are 10 of the best supplements for rock climbing.

CBD

CBD, or cannabidiol, is a compound found in the cannabis plant. Unlike its more famous cousin THC, CBD does not have any psychoactive effects. Instead, it has been shown to offer a variety of health benefits, including reducing anxiety and pain. CBD is also being explored as a treatment for several conditions, including epilepsy and Alzheimer’s disease. CBD oil can be taken orally or applied topically, making it a versatile addition to any medicine cabinet.
For athletes, CBD oil has become an increasingly popular way to manage pain and inflammation. CBD is thought to work by interacting with the body’s endocannabinoid system, which plays a role in regulating pain and inflammation. In one study, rock climbers who took CBD before their climb reported reduced pain and inflammation afterwards. CBD is also being explored as a potential treatment for Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness (DOMS), a type of muscle soreness that can occur after exercise. While more research is needed, CBD oil shows promise as a safe and effective way to manage pain and inflammation for athletes of all levels.

Dose: 60mg after training has shown benefit in muscle recovery

Theanine

Theanine is an amino acid that can be found in tea leaves. It is known to have a calming effect on the mind, and it has been shown to improve focus and concentration. Theanine has also been shown to reduce anxiety levels. For these reasons, theanine has become a popular supplement among rock climbers. While theanine can help to improve focus and cognitive function, it is not a miracle drug. Theanine will not make you a better rock climber overnight. However, it can help to improve your mental state while climbing, making it easier to maintain focus and avoid getting overwhelmed by anxiety. If you are looking for an edge while climbing, theanine may be worth considering.

Dose: 100mg has shown improvements in cognitive function.

Protein

Climbing is a strenuous activity that can lead to muscle soreness and fatigue. Adding a protein powder supplement to your diet can help your muscles recover more quickly so that you can get back on the wall sooner. Protein powder is also helpful in preventing injuries since it helps to repair and build muscle tissue. For optimal effects, it is best to take a protein supplement within one hour after climbing.

Dose: 1.2-1.5 grams/kg or 30-33 grams when combined with athletic training.

Iron

Climbing takes a lot of energy, so it’s important to make sure you’re getting enough iron. Iron helps carry oxygen to your cells, which gives you the energy you need to power through a tough climb. If you’re not getting enough iron, you might start to feel fatigued more easily. The best way to get iron is through food sources like red meat, dark leafy greens, and beans. However, if you’re not getting enough from your diet, you might want to consider taking an iron supplement. Just be sure to talk to your doctor first, as too much iron can be harmful.

Dose: Depends on current iron levels. Blood testing may be required. Consult with your doctor or naturopath.

Magnesium

Magnesium is a mineral that is critical for human health. It is involved in over 300 biochemical reactions in the body, including the metabolism of energy, the regulation of blood sugar, and the formation of bones and teeth. Magnesium is also essential for muscle function, and it helps to relieve muscle cramps. For athletes and people who are physically active, magnesium is especially important. This is because Magnesium helps to maintain electrolyte balance and to reduce exercise-induced inflammation.
Rock climbers can benefit from taking magnesium supplements, as this can help to improve their performance and recovery from climbs. Magnesium can also help to prevent injuries by reducing the risk of cramping. For climbers who are looking to improve their results, magnesium may be a valuable addition to their diet.

Dose: Up to 350mg is generally tolerated well.

Creatine

Creatine is a naturally occurring compound in the body that helps to supply energy to cells. It is popular among climbers because it has been shown to improve power and strength output. This can be helpful when you are trying to send a hard route or when you need to pull yourself up a steep wall. Creatine is also one of the most studied supplements on the market, so you can be confident in its safety and effectiveness.

Dose: 20 grams for 5-7 days has shown improvement in both aerobic and anaerobic performance

Beta-Alanine

Beta-alanine is another amino acid that is popular among athletes because it has been shown to improve performance. It works by increasing the amount of carnosine in muscle cells, which helps to buffer lactic acid buildup. This can delay fatigue, arm pump and help you climb for longer periods of time without getting as tired. Beta-alanine is also relatively safe and has been well-studied, so you can be confident in its effects.

Dose: 2-6.4 grams for 3-12 weeks demonstrated improvements in exercise capacity and performance.

Collagen

Collagen is a structural protein that helps to give tissues their strength and elasticity. It is found throughout the body, including in the skin, bones, and tendons. Collagen plays an important role in rock climbing, as it helps to maintain the strength and integrity of the climbers’ hands and feet. Collagen also helps to protect against injury, as it acts as a shock absorber and can help to reduce the impact of falls. In addition, collagen aids in the healing process, helping to repair tissue damage caused by climbing. As a result, collagen is an essential component of rock climbing. without it, climbers would be at a higher risk of injury and would have a difficult time recovering from falls. Taking daily amounts of collagen through supplementation can help ensure that your body has all the required building blocks for collagen synthesis.

Dose: 10-20 grams daily has shown increases in performance.

Ginseng

Ginseng is an herb that has been used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine. Today, ginseng is commonly taken as a dietary supplement, and it is also said to have many benefits for athletes and outdoor enthusiasts. Ginseng is thought to improve stamina and endurance, and some climbers even swear by it as a way to boost their performance on the rock. Ginseng is available in many forms, including capsules, teas, and tinctures. If you’re interested in trying ginseng for yourself, be sure to talk to your doctor first, as it can interact with some medications.

Dose: 200mg up to 3 times daily for 12 weeks has been shown to be safe. Panax Ginseng can raise blood pressure so it is important to consult with your doctor or naturopath prior to supplementation.

Caffeine

Caffeine is a popular supplement among athletes in general because it has been shown to improve alertness, focus, and power output. This can be helpful when you are trying to maintain focus while climbing. Caffeine is also relatively safe, but it is important to not overdo it as too much caffeine can lead to side effects like jitters and anxiety.

Dose: 2-10mg/kg has shown improvements in athletic performance. Up to 400mg per day has been shown to be relatively safe for most individuals.

Conclusion

These are just a few of the many different supplements that can be helpful for rock climbing. If you are looking to improve your performance, then you may want to consider adding some of these supplements to your diet. As always, make sure to consult with a doctor before starting any new supplement regimen.

References

Isenmann E, Veit S, Starke L, Flenker U, Diel P. Effects of Cannabidiol Supplementation on Skeletal Muscle Regeneration after Intensive Resistance Training. Nutrients 2021;13(9):3028

Foxe JJ, et al. Assessing the effects of caffeine and theanine on the maintenance of vigilance during a sustained attention task. Neuropharmacology. 2012;62(7):2320-2327

McAdam JS, McGinnis KD, Beck DT, et al. Effect of Whey Protein Supplementation on Physical Performance and Body Composition in Army Initial Entry Training Soldiers. Nutrients. 2018;10(9)

McNaughton LR, Dalton B, Tarr J. The effects of creatine supplementation on high-intensity exercise performance in elite performers. (abstract) Eur J Appl Physiol Occup Physiol 1998;78:236-40

Hobson RM, Saunders B, Ball G, et al. Effects of ß-alanine supplementation on exercise performance: a meta-analysis. Amino Acids 2012;43:25-37

Jendricke P, Kohl J, Centner C, Gollhofer A, König D. Influence of specific collagen peptides and concurrent training on cardiometabolic parameters and performance indices in women: A randomized controlled trial. Front Nutr. 2020;7:580918.

Sorensen H, Sonne J. A double-masked study of the effects of ginseng on cognitive functions. Curr Ther Res 1996;57:959-68.

Greer F, Friars D, Graham TE. Comparison of caffeine and theophylline ingestion: exercise metabolism and endurance. J Appl Physiol 2000;89:1837-44


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11/Jul/2022

Fasting for six years

I thought it was a good time for me to personally reflect on the last six years of intermittent fasting. Yes, for the last six years I have been following a relatively strict program of fasting for 16-20 hours of the day. Usually this means having my last meal of the day around 6pm and my first meal the following day at 11am.

I remember first hearing about the benefits of intermittent fasting (IF) at a medical conference organized by the Association for the Advancement of Restorative Medicine back in 2016. After Dr. Denis Wilson M.D. spoke about all the clinically supported benefits of IF as well as his own personal journey with IF, I was sold!

Fasting and Climbing

That was around the same time I started to take rock climbing seriously. A was training 2-3 days per week and for around 2 hours each session. I decided it would be an interesting experiment to combine IF with my morning training. I was hitting the gym while in a fasted state (usually around 16 hours at that point) and would train as hard as I could.

When the body is in a post 14 hour fast it starts to convert fat into an energy source called ketones. This is because all the sugar stored in the body has been used up. Exercising while fasting speeds up this process. I was amazed to see how quickly this combination of fasting and exercise transformed my body and my health. Over the course of a year I lost 15lb and went up several grades in my climbing. My climbing partners couldn’t believe I was able to climb hard on an empty stomach, but I actually felt lighter and clearer. I would try to have my first meal of the day within an hour after workouts for optimal protein metabolism to build muscle. I would regularly get comments from familiar faces at the gym asking if I’m doing anything special outside of the gym. I simply told them that I’m fasting and climbing. Pretty simple but very effective.

Finding the right program

Over the following 5 years I had short 2-3 week periods where I would take a break from IF but would soon return as I felt my best, looked my best and climbed my best while on a pretty strict IF program. I have since recommended IF to dozens of patients, the majority of whom see results within a few months. One of my biggest supporters and now followers of IF is my dad. He saw such dramatic results that IF is now a regular lifestyle habit for him as well.

I dabbled a few times with doing pretty long fasts (20-23 hours) and eating only one meal per day but I found that this was a bit hard on my body. I was getting irritable and was not performing very well at the gym. I now have a pretty good understanding of how many hours my body likes to fast for and how many meals per day is best.

Everyone is going to find a sweet spot for themselves. I don’t recommend forcing the body into a particular program but to try fasting for different lengths of time and see what feels and works best. It does take a little getting used to at first but it is important to remember that this is a very natural state for the human body.

It’s only natural

Through most of human evolution humanity had to go for extended periods of time without food. In fact, an abundance of food at our beck and call is likely contributing to a lot of chronic disease in our modern way of living. Many religious traditions still practice fasting in order to clear the mind, body and spirit. Centuries of cultural practice as well as hundreds of recent studies are in support of fasting in one form or another. It is one of the cheapest, simplest and most effective medical programs I can recommend for a patient.

What lies ahead

Looking ahead to the next decade, I don’t see myself giving up IF anytime soon. There are a few other lifestyle changes I would like to implement but IF will continue to be the backbone of my personal health and wellness program. There are some individuals including in pregnancy where IF is not recommended. I encourage those of you curious about IF or trying it out, to at least have a consultation with a health professional like myself. The benefit of being supervised by a Naturopathic Doctor is the peace of mind that your are practicing something that is safe for your body, you have someone to answer questions as they arise and even to run blood tests if necessary. If I have inspired at least a few people to give IF a try then I have passed along a valuable lifestyle tool as it was passed to me six years ago. Happy fasting everyone!


dr_shawn

Patient focused integrative health care. Utilizing effective natural approaches designed to be used alone or to compliment conventional medical care.


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